Around the World: Tanah

January 29, 1992

After breakfast, we planned to head northwest to Tabanan, to see the mythical Tanah Lot temple, constructed upon a rock shaped by centuries of ocean tides.  During breakfast, Tracey and her parents got into an argument and although none of them were speaking to each other, we decided to go anyway.

We were barely on our way when a storm dumped monsoon worthy rains upon us and without any warning, another taxi drove into the side of ours.  No one was hurt, which is amazing as there are no seat belts, and the chaos encouraged the family to resume communications.  It seems rain is good for more than making plants green.

We switched to another taxi, as the windows were shattered in the crash and the car was not drive-able.  Fortunately, the rain let up for a spectacular view of the Tanah Lot temple.

Tanah Lot temple at high tide

I tried to get a closer look at the temple, but was cautioned against it by one of the officials who informed me that poisonous sea snakes are plentiful around and on the island.  Hindu legend says that a giant sea snake guards the island from intruders and I didn't want to risk being mistaken for one.

The taxi then brought us into Kuta for some shopping, where we recognized Pauline and Ben, a couple we had met on Ko Samui.  We shared a taxi to Uluwatu, rumoured to have views of the best sunsets on Bali.  I'll never know because another storm clouded over any chance to see it.  Instead we found a restaurant and talked until the rain let up.  They gave me their address in Bournemouth, England and offered me an invitation to stay at their bed and breakfast inn.

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Luck affects everything; let your hook always be cast; in the stream where you least expect it, there will be a fish.

~ Ovid

Around the World: Ubud, Bali

January 26, 1992

Found a Lonely Planet guide to South East Asia.  The prices are out of whack, as it was published in 1985, but it's still useful for looking up sights to visit and explore.

Hoping for some relief from the heat, I went for a swim in the hotel pool.  It's a rare treat to find a pool that is refreshingly cool and this pool was not one of them, like trying to cool off in a hot bath.

There's a gecko just outside the window and Anna informs us that there is a big bug in the bathroom with her.  By the sound of the shoe smacking going on, it sounds like it's a good size, but apparently (and thankfully) kill-able.

Today, Tracey and I rented a taxi for half the day, which cost 300,000 Rupiah ($15).  I don't know if I'll get used to seeing all these zeros on the cost of things.  It's as close to being a millionaire as I'm ever going to get, and the illusion only costs about $50.

The Elephant Cave near Ubud

After a few stops at some markets in Ubud, the taxi brought us to visit the Hindu archaeological site of Goa Gajah and the Elephant Cave.  Anyone with clothing that does not cover their knees must rent a sarong for 5,000 Rupiah (25¢) to enter the temple grounds.  The carved entrance of a demonic mouth is meant to symbolize the entrance to the underworld.  Of particular interest are the number of Buddhist relics excavated from within the cave and its close proximity to a Buddhist temple.  It is believed the Elephant Cave was dug completely by the hands of Hindu priests, and although the exact age of the cave is unknown, the first mention of Goa Gajah and the Elephant Cave was in the Javanese poem, "Desawarnana" written in 1365.

Long-tailed macaques

Not far from the cave is the Monkey Forest, a sanctuary for over 300 long-tailed macaque monkeys.  This is not a zoo setting where there is some barrier to separate visitors from the wildlife.  When posted signs caution visitors not to feed the animals, it is wise to heed the advice.  Two guys in the small group just ahead of Tracey and I held out a banana to attract a monkey or two down from the trees for a photo opportunity.  The guys were quickly swarmed by a dozen or more macaques who not only took the banana, but both their ball caps, a pair of glasses and the camera they hoped to snap the photo with.  By far, it was the best example of stupidity I've ever had the pleasure to witness.

After a day of exploring, we came back to the hotel and went for a dip in the warm pool and a very delicious pasta dinner.  Settling in for the night with a little light reading about the unique and strange that is India.

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"Luck can often mean simply taking advantage of a situation at the right moment. It is possible to make your luck by being always prepared."

~- Michael Korda

Around the World: Bali

January 24, 1992

After a short flight from Jakarta to Denpasar, on the island province of Bali, we hired a taxi to take us to the hotel.  The place Harvey picked out has that Hollywood Hills appeal - a bathtub big enough to swim in, private garden, huge rooms and big price tag.  We enjoyed the luxury for a short time before investigating another hotel.  Harvey found one that is just as comfortable, a little smaller, less extravagant for a quarter the price.  It's available tomorrow.

We stopped in Kuta for a bite to eat and some shopping.  I bought a couple swim suits and some beach wear for 40,000 Rupiah (about $2) each.  It's wise to check everything for rips, tears, cracks, because the vendors will try to sell anything in any condition and once you accept it, it's your problem.

Tracey got trapped in a store when the vendor wouldn't let her leave until she bought something, so she chose a T-shirt, offered the guy 30,000 Rupiah and left.  It seems, here in Bali, the price of freedom is about a buck and a half.

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"The only freedom which deserves the name, is that of pursuing our own good in our own way, so long as we do not attempt to deprive others of theirs, or impede their efforts to obtain it."

~John Stewart Mill